Modern Sharm and the phoenix that is Beirut sandwich a memorable passage through Suez. Outside Tartous, you'll marvel at the fortress of Krak des Chevaliers. Perge (near Antalya), Bodrum and the isthmus city of Nesebur each provide a window on the past, while spas and baths in Russian Sochi offer a welcome welcome tonic. Grand Graeco-Roman finds crop up in Ephesus, Minoan temples in Crete, while island tavernas and retsinas add sparkle to an Aegean kaleidoscope.